What God provides...

The last two days have gone by in a whirl. From Rio, we stepped from a beach life (with its fair share of hedonism, complete with the Girl from Ipanema) to an ancient city once the cultural, commercial and political capital of all of South America. 

Cuzco, in the local Quecha language means navel and it is from this high Andes mountain valley that the Incas built their empire. All over the city, one is reminded of this glorious heritage but at the same time sorely aware that no one remains at the peak forever. Yes, the pillage by the Spanish Conquistadors in the name of God but more for gold and glory has no parallel even until today.

The Spanish conquerors did leave behind beautiful monuments, churches in particular whichvare buily on top of old Inca temples. The existing paradigm then, and one would argue even today is to invoke celestial even divine blessings for one's right to rule, however cruelly so.

... But mankind must also help itself

A unique feature in Brazil and Peru is where the poor lives. Because basic services like electricity, running water and piped gas are difficult to deliver, the hillsides would become abodes for the poor unlike in rich cities. These self erected houses, of the most basic materials are called favellas.

We wanted to see them but didn't get to do so when in Rio (under advisement by our conservative travel guide). We thought this chance had passed us by but were surprised to see that most of Cuzco lives in favellas, much like in Rio: mountain side, basic amenities and of course poor but with one big difference, its safe, not drug addicted nor gang controlled.  Again, goes to show what good governance can do.

Quite a number of the archaeological sites around Cuzco are a stone's throw away from these favellas and you can see how the locals try to make an honest living off the tourists rather than picking their pockets. More significantly in every shop, market stall or even street vendor we saw, if there was a kid there, more often than not you will find her studying. Yes, her... for women here are an extremely important part of the economy; participating in all activities even manual labour restoring the old sites.

There is a certain determination to the people you see here, perhaps the proud and conquering Inca blood from half a millennium ago still fire them up. They retain their own language, Quecha, and have largely not intermarried. They therefore have a unique look: brown complexion, with elongated friendly faces.

And despite the best evangelical efforts of European priests, they still cling on to their traditions, even featuring them in the cathedral carvings. Don't forget the Incas believe they had superior (and we cannot really dispute that) architectural and artisanal skills, and they even claimed to have mastered astronomy. 

Yes, a proud people,  determined to move forward. If the rest of Peru are like those we have seen in Cuzco and Macchu Pichu, this country can expect to develop well.

Brasil!

PBrazil ⁱ/brəˈzɪl/ (Portuguese: Brasil, IPA: [bɾaˈziw]^[8]), officially the Federative Republic of Brazil (Portuguese: República Federativa do Brasil,  listen (help·info)),^[9] is the largest country in both South America and the Latin American region. It is the world's fifth largest country, both by geographical area and by population.^[10] It is the largest lusophone country in the world, and the only one in the Americas.^[11]

Bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the east, Brazil has a coastline of 7,491 km (4,655 mi).^[12] It is bordered on the north by Venezuela, Guyana, Surinameand the French overseas region of French Guiana; on the northwest byColombia; on the west by Bolivia and Peru; on the southwest by Argentina andParaguay and on the south by Uruguay. Numerous archipelagos form part of Brazilian territory, such as Fernando de Noronha, Rocas Atoll, Saint Peter and Paul Rocks, and Trindade and Martim Vaz.^[12] It borders all other South American countries except Ecuador and Chile and occupies 47 percent of the continent of South America.

Brazil was inhabited by numerous tribal nations prior to the landing of explorerPedro Álvares Cabral in 1500, who claimed the area for Portugal. Brazil remained a Portuguese colony until 1808, when the capital of the empire wastransferred from Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro after French forces led by EmperorNapoleon Bonaparte invaded Portugal.^[13] In 1815, it was elevated to the rank of kingdom upon the formation of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves. Its independence was achieved in 1822 with the creation of theEmpire of Brazil, a unitary state governed under a constitutional monarchy and a parliamentary system. The country became a presidential republic in 1889, when a military coup d'état proclaimed the Republic, although the bicameral legislature, now called Congress, dates back to the ratification of the first constitution in 1824. An authoritarian military junta had led the nation from 1964 until 1985.^[14] Brazil's current Constitution, formulated in 1988, defines it as a federal republic.^[15] The Federation is composed of the union of theFederal District, the 26 states, and the 5,564 municipalities.^[15][16]

The Brazilian economy is the world's seventh largest by nominal GDP and theseventh largest by purchasing power parity, as of 2012.^[17][18] A member of theBRIC group, Brazil has one of the world's fastest growing major economies, with its economic reforms giving the country new international recognition and influence.^[19] Brazil's national development bank (BNDES) plays an important role for the country's economic growth.^[20] Brazil is a founding member of theUnited Nations,^[21] the G20, CPLP, Latin Union, the Organization of Ibero-American States, the Organization of American States, Mercosul and theUnion of South American Nations. Brazil is one of 17 megadiverse countries, home to a variety of wildlife, natural environments, and extensive natural resources in a variety of protected habitats.^[12] Brazil is a regional power in Latin America and a middle power in international affairs,^[22] with some analysts identifying it as an emerging global power.^[23] Brazil has been the world's largest producer of coffee for the last 150 years.^[24]

The above paragraphs are from Wikipedia. We spent just 5 days and nights in this 5th largest country of the world. And we can already tell that the Wikipedia posting glosses over both the beauty as well as heartache that is Brazil. A heartachingly beautiful country is what I would call this place. 

Let me explain: first the beauty. God bless this place. And it's truly evident in Rio, a city that fronts the Atlantic, has a mountainous forest right in the middle of it and a scenery that is second to none I. This world. Brazil is also rich in minerals. Above ground, it's top soil is fertile... Everything grows on it! And for a long time as we saw in the century old fruit trees in the national first park of Tijuaca. 

But then the heartache. It's native people, abundantly endowed by nature as they are, must have been peaceful folks living off the land and enjoying much free time. So when the colonizing forces came from Europe, beginning with the Portuguese, they must have yielded easily and in fact allowed the culture of their masters to assimilate into theirs and with that started the process of ceding everything: language, race, religion, political and economic power.

Post colonization, Brazil has had a start-stop series of development. Every step forward seemed to be followed by two steps back. This is a function of poor governance by a succession of populist governments incapable of undertaking tough reforms to get the country and it's population working hard and moving forward. Then there is the issue of corruption :(

Having been powered by sheer size and natural endowments to a middle income country, I really don't know how it will escape the middle income trap from hereon. But because it's such a beautiful country I really wish it all the best.

I will always remember Brazil for two things.

First, staying true to its flag, Brazil is indeed the world. Brazil today is truly a melting pot of the world, especially in São Paulo, where generations of immigrants (some slaves, some itinerant workers) from all over: Italians, Africans, Chinese, Japanese not to mention the Portuguese, French, Spaniards and British who came, stayed and intermingled. Everyone is a Brazilian, where the sense that colour, race or creed matters not is so liberating.

Second, as the world's largest country of Roman Catholics, it's got perhaps the most awesome manmade homage to Christ. The statue of Christ the Redeemer is shaped like a cross, but not that ancient Roman device of torture and death but rather an arms outstretched father welcoming and blessing all. It is perched on a high vantage point visible to and therefore connecting with all the people in this city. It's one of the most uplifting creations of man, and sited so perfectly in Rio to pay homage to one of the most breathtaking place of God.

We may or may not return but we shall always remember this place.

Her name is Lola, she was a showgirl...

... And that was exactly how we started our first evening in Rio de Janeiro. After another hearty barbecued meat dinner, we headed to specially for tourist show. D commented that this adds to our experience in Hawaii where we experienced the Pacific Islands culture, in Australia for life in the outback, and closer home of course the highly entertaining Tiffany show in Thailand. The Brazilian show featured capoeira! their unique form of acrobatic martial arts that worked really well with the frenetic, hypnotic beats of drums. 

In Rio, however, one must do what Rioans do, and that's to walk along the beach. Yesterday was Sunday and the streets were closed for pedestrians and we walked 5kms from Copacabana to Ipanema and to the Sunday Hippie Market where D got her usual collection of local handmade accessories, for herself and her daughter. 

On the way back, we stopped for drinks and acoustic smooth songs of a Brazilian guitarist. I lamented the lack of bikini babes (the cool, or in D's estimation cold!, and sunless weather probably accounted for that) but we got to see many other, perhaps more important aspects of Rio's attractions: from surfers to sands sculpture against the backdrop of undeniable beauty of the bay and it's surrounding rock promontories. 

I've mentioned before that all history is geography... How settlements, in days of old, are always around water sources and cities grew from there. How sediments in the ground turn to precious minerals that enriches the place and to a large extent heightens its attractions to predator countries and more sadly, enfeebles it's people. Here in Rio, where the ground is fertile, the scenery is nice and the weather is clement, Rioans become life loving, laid back denizens. Is this a good thing or could this become too much of a good thing? We talked about drive, pride and purpose but if Mother Nature has provided all, what else is there to strive for?

Good questions to ponder as we head out to see one of the newly selected manmade wonder of the world: Christo Redentor, or Christ the Redeemer. 

The ecstasy of victory, the agony of defeat

A long time ago, before the days of 24 hours of sports news, we got our fix once a week in a digest (if memory serves me, sponsored by Gillette). The start of the program would feature clips of winners and losers accompanied by one of the most unforgettable lines ever uttered by any sports commentator... 

Yesterday, in a country where football is placed on a pedestal beyond any other sport, I caught the final match of the 2014 Champions League. The game started tense, lots of fast even fancy footwork but no penetration in the final third for either team, until Athletico scored just past the half hour mark and the Real goalkeeper had to shoulder much of the blame. 

This match was special in 5 ways.

1. I got to watch it in Brazil. In fact, all my sense were activated. Here in my hotel room in Rio, I can hear the sound of waves crashing onto Copacanana beach outside as well as a view of the mountains that surround this city. 

2. I got to watch the whole match, not bad considering I was scheduled to arrive here from São Paulo just 40 minutes before the scheduled start. There was simply no customs hold up nor traffic. We were truly fortunate. It's almost as if everything in the world conspired for me to make this :)

3. It's the last major match in world football, being played less than a month from the kickoff of the 2014 World Cup tournament, right here in Brazil; and the match itself featured players from countries who all fancy themselves a good shot to be crowned world champions: Spain, Brazil, Portugal...

4. It's one for the history books because for the first time, two teams from the same city made it to the very top of European club football (which remains the world's best for all the best players in the world yearned to be spotted and playing for (and of course ridiculously well paid by) a top European club

5. And last but certainly not least, it's a fantastically emotional match. After that first 'soft' goal, Real tried but could not break down Athletico's defence. In fact, after more than 90 minutes of play, Athletico was merely 90 seconds away from being European champions (completing a difficult to obtain double for they are already the Spanish Primera Liga winners this year), when Ramos scored, also with a header, to equalize and take the game into extra time. In extra time, Real Madrid scores three more times in 10 minutes and took home the trophy for the tenth time. The last time they did so, it was through one of the most balletic move by a virtuoso of this beautiful game, Zidane. He was there in the stands as part of the Real Madrid team but the night belong to all the 22 players on the pitch and their coaches.

It's just a game, I know. But nothing quite rouses the emotions, esp amongst us fans. This kiss from the captain (who was nearly to be a villainous zero had Real lost) to his compatriot who took the game into extra time truly says it all.

In keeping with the sports theme (Rio de Janeiro after all is known to be a runner's city with people running up and down its beaches all day and night) another sport is due to take place today. The F1 race this weekend is in Monaco and I hope to catch it on TV here in Ayrton Senna's country. 

As a relative neutral (save for maybe Manchester United, and Fernando Alonso whichever team he drives for), I love sports (the spectator sort) simply because I get to enjoy the ecstasy of victory and occasionally suffer the agony of defeat. I remember I was asked to introduce myself at my first worldwide partner meeting and on my intro slide I was asked who my favorite sports team were, and in response I added, being a fan of a sports team allows one to participate in something larger than self. It's a philosophy we can all live by, and with the highs and lows that come with it, surely one that adds drama even meaning to our time here.

Photo credits: neogaf.com, marca.com

The eye of the beholder

We had just concluded an hour long visit to yet another art museum to find that it has started raining outside. The weather forecast had predicted rain throughout the day but we were thankful to have missed most of that as it never developed beyond a light drizzle. After 4 and a half hours of taking it the sights in São Paulo, my favorite being Oscar Niemeyer's creations in the Ibirapuera Park, we headed to what has consistently been rated the number one must-see in the city; the MASP (Museo de Arte de Sau Paulo) - where we were sated with yet another world class collection of Chagall, El Greco, Goya, Manet, Modigliani, Monet, Rembrandt, Picasso, Van Gogh: artists whose masterpieces we have had the good fortune to have become acquainted with after nearly two dozen years of visiting museums around the world, from The Hermitage in St Petersburg to the Louvre in Paris to the Prado in Madrid and the Uffizi in Florence.

But unlike the Uffizi which had a bit too much art (though the Michelangelo and Da Vinci pieces make it all worthwhile), MASP housed all its collection on one floor, of its ultracool minimalist building. And inside, we felt like being welcomed into the company of old friends and had thankfully escaped the slight downpour. 

There were two exhibitions: one on works produced in Paris by many of the above named artists; and another on the "Triumph of Detail, and then, Nothing". The former we were already familiar with, so we felt cozy and comfortable. The latter I had particularly enjoyed because this theme of "Detail vs Nothing" curated the paintings in a fresh exciting way: "During (sic) a long time, art was first and foremost, the art of details, the art of reproducing details or creating imaginary details. Then came a time when the detail begins to dissolve itself, and the art with it; and, in a third time, detail is simply no more"

Duly inspired, I took to creating works of art myself, with my erstwhile favourite model (now superseded by my daughter :), who was holding on to an umbrella to shield us from the rain. As we walked back to our hotel, this one-liner queen remarked casually after that "art is indeed in the eye of the beholder", and that she was the beholder of my art.

Paintings credit: Monet!

Travel enriches the mind (and fuels the body)

So the mantra goes. Many travel for sights, others to hear new sounds, some to taste new, authentic foods. 

For us, increasingly we moved from sightseers to food tasters. Not that we don't enjoy the sights anymore; we do, tremendously. The sights remain the intended destinations but we take the moment to make the journey there memorable too, by stopping off to enjoy their foods and just as importantly, plenty of time to banter with each other. Both kids, but J especially, are at their happiest when their bellies are full and warm.

We landed in São Paulo just before rush hour and it took us nearly 90minutes to get to our hotel. We headed out shortly after for a meal of meats: Brazil is famous for it's barbecued meats served right from the skewers, churrascaria, and that was exactly what we had at the Fogo de Chao: from beef to lamb to pork to poultry, capped off with a nice welcome drink of caipirinha, their national cocktail. We truly filled our bellies, very much with our kids in mind.

And on the sabbath...

Even God needed a break and after 24 years of working, non-stop (apart from annual leave), even when changing jobs, I am finally going on a sabbatical. 

We were never really meant to stay too much time together. Save for a year in Zurich in '95 and another year or so in Kuala Lumpur (96-97), D & I have had to endure a long distance relationship where we spend time together only during weekends. We made up for it with lovely letters and (then) expensive phone calls.

So, there is no way I am spending this sabbatical (however short) alone. We've planned for it to happen last year but the business situation did not permit it. So much for plans, but am glad we are able to do it this year.

We will be away for nearly 3 weeks - first to Brazil, the Peru, then the US. We will spend time in two cities in each country and finally return the other way round the world, stopping in Tokyo then back. Unlike our trip last June (Edinburgh, Boston) where we visited the smaller/more charming "2nd capital", this visit is to places that have been or could have been capitals of the world, from Rio to Macchu Picchu, the zenith would not be reached or sustained. 

Compare to what we have here in Singapore where insightful economic planning coupled with rigorous, disciplined execution propelled it into becoming truly a global city. And it achieved this within a generation (the founding father, Lee Kuan Yew, is still alive albeit in frail condition presently). This journey from Third World to First in less than 50 years is a shining beacon for all developing nations.

That said, in every country, there are elements of superiority. So whether Brazil, or even Peru could continue to emerge or if the US or Japan can sustain its supremacy, what I would mits like to see (esp in South America, a continent neither of us has been to), is to bear witness to God's creations, first the geography, and then the history shaped by the geography. 

So, goodbye Singapore (for a short while) and here's hoping for a good Sabbath :)

The pursuit of excellence

I take a flight nearly every other day. That means I wander through some airport every other day as well. And besides the lounge, the other most visited outlet in the airport is the bookshop. Every now and then I buy one or two... but I must confess it don't finish most of these. They sit pretty on the shelf and maybe even convey a sense of (false) scholarship of the owner. The truth is I have developed a particular taste in literature. I can exactly define it for it ranges from Exupery and Bach on the one hand, to Townsend to Irving and Dahl on the other. I can't put these books down once I pick them up. 

Today at the bookshop, I saw a book I did read cover to cover a few years ago. Not by an author, but he did write this one book. It's called The Last Lecture by Randy Pausch, who tragically passed away from cancer having delivered his last lecture. I really resonated with the sentiments he expressed.

We sometimes lead such busy lives that we don't realize how barren they are. Just the other day, as I was recovering from 'overheat', consequence of running around too much and consuming too much hot foods, my dear daughter had prudently decided to limit her proximity. We were passing each other in a corridor and she matter-of-factly remarked that it should not touch her as she was to sit for an exam the day after. She's 14 and thoroughly responsible! Growing straight into adulthood, and very much nurtured, like her brother, by the school ethos of pursuing excellence in everything they do. It's important though to also have a purpose to these pursuits. Which brings me back to Exupery and his Le Petit Prince. The little prince laments the grown ups who don't get it anymore.

Since I am presently of this disposition, there is no better time for me to similarly take a sabbatical.